Ernakulam and Cochin

After a lovely evening and delightful warm shower we woke up ready for action today. In the morning we went to the new part of the area - Ernakulam. It could practically be anywhere in the (hot) world: modern buildings, shops, orderly traffic, PARKS and PLAYGROUNDS!!! Things we never saw in Chennai, although Neel keeps insisting that they did exist. We then went to the old part of the city - Cochin or Kochin for a visit to "Jew Town" as it's called. So - I may be getting dates wrong (not my strong suit) but I believe the synagogue was established in about 1344, when this was a Portugese colony. The building is clearly ancient. There is a small museum area in which paintings depict the arrival of the Jews in India. The synagogue is filled with chandeliers - which would be beautiful filled witht eh candles for which they are designed. In traditional Orthodox fashion - there is a balcony where the women would worship and the ground level for the men. The pulpit is an elevated platform with a brass railing around it - in the center of the building, with the area for the Torah at the far end. The best part: as Miriam and I were talking with Neel, an American woman asked if she could listen to what we were saying - thinking that Neel was explaining things to us, as he is Indian. We told her that actually Neel is our guide for all things Hindu, and Miriam and I are his guides for all things Jewish...but: it turns out that this woman was from Seattle and knew the new Rabbi who is about to lead Miriam's congregation in Minneapolis...so she and Miriam got to travel all the way to India to share a bit of gossip about the new Rabbi! Small world!!!!
There are many narrow streets on the approach to the synagogue - all filled with many shops. At one that advertised itself as selling traditional Jewish items, we met the oldest remaining member of the Jewish community - a woman who looked to be in her 80s. She was born here, spoke very good English, and told us that there are only 11 Jews left here. Anyway - amused myself taking photos of the "Jew Town" signs. I think I have now found someone who can put my photos on a CD and then will finally be able to post some to the blog...since my i-phone's ability to connect is spotty at best.

So - we are getting ready to attend a kathicali dance performance (classical Indian dance). Apparently the 1st hour we watch them apply makeup; the 2nd hour is the dance. Hmmm...sound more like a drag performance (ha ha).
So this internet cafe is quite a bit more modern than my place in Chennai...just had a cat wandering through - no cows seen yet - only goats...but there is an actual cafe and bookstore attached. It sells (for the yogis) a good selection of the Bihar School books, as well as books on Gandhi, tourist-type books, and some novels by Indian authors...but I also see a copy of the Hobbit. There definitely are many more Western tourists here...which is not at all surprising, since it is clear why Chennai is not a top tourist destination. If I had to choose - this would be the place to be.

Kerala - A Different World

A very orderly and pleasant flight to Kochin. Leaving Chennai viewed the miles of urban sprawl from the air...flew over mountains and greenery...arrived in Kochin seeing lots and lots of green v\from the air. The ride from the airport was pleasant...the city of Cochin is clean, little horn honking, and appears so much more prop\sperous than Chennai...there are stores and businesses that look like what you would see other parts of the world...unlike Chennai which more and more seems like a very dirty, noisy. congested place that I was ready to leave. Although Neel - our guide for the rest of the trip told us that where he was staying in Chennai was so nice he's thinking of relocating there from Pune!

We learned a lot abot Neel on the ride from the aip\rport to our resort - apparentl;y a Dutch palace from the 1700s. Let';s just say it clean, comfortable, and the room is large. yippee!!! we are ready for some creature comforts. I have yet to describe the beautifully painted trucks, whcih I will do at some point...but we drove past a lot that outdid anything we'd seen to date.

A fe more additions to my list from yesterday"

Things carried on the head:
load of banana leaves
load of cement
bricks
huge branch of bananas

Things carried on bicycle cart:
garbage
inner tubes
fuel cans
tea (the pot with tea and cups to sell tea)

BEfore we left Chennai - this morning we went to the flower/fruit/and vegetable market. It was a sight to behold...but my compainons are ready for dinner...so the fuller description will have to wait.

My Beautiful Porur Neighborhood

Leaving Chennai

As I sit to write there is a big cow placidly grazing the trash right outside the internet cafe which has been my primary link to the Western world. Where else but India???

Today was our last full day in Chennai and we went on a shopping spree at the Government Emporium. All the items are handcrafted in villages across the country and are certified to be free of child labor. They support economic development in poor areas, so it is a great place to shop and the variety and beauty of the crafts was staggering. I wish i had about 10 more suitcases to fill!!!! But alas - I had to restrain myself.

I finally figured out the purpose of the stall next door to the internet cafe. I would see everyday a man behind a 3-sided blue wooden structure and there would be a few articles of clothing. I finally realized that he stands there and irons clothing. He uses a massive iron that opens up for him to place hot coals inside of...just like the good old days before electricity. As I peered into his stall from the internet side I saw a large stack of perfectly pressed and folded laundry. I guess it's a living.

I know these lists will be woefully incomplete, but:

Things I have seen carried on the head:

• huge load of laundry
• gigantic water jug
• bundle of dry tree branches
• bundle of branches with green leaves
• enormous bag of rice
• humongous bag of undetermined contents

As another cow strolls by...

Things I have seen transported by/sold from bicycle (essentially a mobile store):

• aluminum pots
• toys/masks
• bananas
• sugar cane
• other fruits and vegetables
• fresh coconuts (which grow everywhere here)

I will try to keep adding to these lists. Somebody just biked past with a huge box about 4 feet square. There goes another cow. I am looking at a banana tree. What a place!

Itinerary Refinements

For those who care - our locations will be modified from the initial itinerary as follows:

Jan. 2-5 Thaneermukkom Lake Resort (Alleppey)

Jan. 6-7 Seaview Hotel (Kanyakumari)

Assisi Home

Today was my last day of work with the gv program and I went to the Assisi Home which runs a day care and orphanage. as it is the x-mas holidays, the older children who live permantly at Assisi were there, as well as a few younger ones who live there full time. As with the children we have encountered everywhere - they are charming, joyful children who love to interact with us.

I enjoyed teaching a few dance steps to the kids. They especially seemed to enjy a jitterbug variation consisting of me turning them forward, then back and then pulling back from each other in a dramatic lean - which occasional;ly meant an overly-enthusiastic butt landing on the ground. Nevertheless, I had many requests as a dance partner! I also taught the tango and limbo - to my loud and probably off-key singing...but there were no complaints...as is par fore the course for these kids.

I was rather horrified at the way the little ones are fed their lunch. In many parts of South India it is traditional to eat with one's right hand...mixing rice with a vegetable sambar (like a soup) or a curry. The 2-year old are sat down on a row on the floor, and the Sister mixes the food and shoves a handful in the mouth of each child in turn...a very efficient germ distribution system. but - they seem quite healthy, so I guess it works for them. They also seem to get potty trained quite efficiently. When one of the little ones has to go - he or she just strips off the clothes, heads for the potty seats at the side of the big open room, does his or her thing, and may or may not put the clothes back on. Diapers are for special occasions only...so it definitely facilitates early learning.

The older girls (about 12-15 years old) treated the 4 volunteers there today to mendhi - we each got a hand and wrist painted in henna which will be a reminder of these children for at least a week.

I certainly do not regret having signed-on with GV and have learned a lot. The people in Chennai have been friendly and open and very welcoming to Americans. But it is a city whose charms begin to wear away after 2 weeks of car rides that seem endless in the heat, pollution, exhaust, and congestion and the sheer amount of garbage, excrement, open sewers - you name it - we see it. My favority was the ride home after our traditional x-mas eve visit to the downtown shopping mall...as we inched our way along a jam-packed divided highway there was a man sitting in the thin median strip calmly reading the newspaper. Why on earth he chose that location is incomprehensible - epitomizing some of the mysterty that is India.

We have one last day to sightsee tomorrow and then, Sunday, will meet our new guide - Neel - who will ferry us through Kerala - the state on the southern western part of India. Also - after seeing the 'Christian" side of India - we now will see the HIndu side - as Neel is a yoga teacher and well versed in its culture. He will not only be taking us for Ayurvedic treatments, visits to temples and to the periyar wildlife sanctuary...but also will offer yoga instruction, discussion of yoga phhilosophy, etc. on the side and to help pass the time in our car rides.

I don't know how frequently I will be able to access internet - but think I finally have gotten the communication between my iphone and the blog...so hope to post a few more photos from the phone.

As Kerala will be much more rural - I am looking forward to a cleaner, calmer experience. But I also am aware that many who have been here before me have cautioned me that things will not go as planned so i should expect the unexpected.

In addition to everything I've already reported, these things have made me happy on this trip:
1. the total ease with which I've slipped out of my regular life. I do not think about the office and what is being done or not done in my absence. I think about the people: Jana - I think of you often in the completely absurd traffic situations (by the way - several times now have seen 5 people on a single motor bike..yes 3 are children...but still!!!) and Wendy - you would DEFINITELY want to bring a busload of thtese children home with you. There were 2 beautiful and charming girls - ages 9 and 11 - at the orphanage today who I would gladly bring home with me. But I do not think about the work or worry about it.
2. I hope i am not about to totally jinx myself - but I have yet to expereince any intestinal distress. Others in our group have had various such maladies. I am sticking to the advice to never drink the tap water, and am rather picky even about the bottled water, I have eaten nothing fried - tempting though it has been at times, and am keeping strictly vegetarian.

I hope I have not fried my brains by the amount of DEET I'm using - but it beats getting bitten!

Effigy to draw evil eye during construction

Bittersweet Goodbyes; X-mas greetings

Yesterday we said goodbye to the children at SEAMs and all had some tears as these children made a place in our hearts and we have many questions as to what theior futures hold. Surely they are better off than many children who are living on the streets or forced into labor...but they also have uncertain futures. Yet despite their circumstances they are uniformly generous and joyful. They perfromed songs and dances for us and then we shared a meal at which all were polite and organized.

Today we are crammed with christmas activities - went to mass for the baptism of our host Stephen's son Roshen (I'm no fan of services of any sort - and the 2 and a half hours almost did me in)...then to Stephen's parents house for a meal. We now are off to the Assisi home to visit witht eh children ther and have yet another meal...and then are invited back to Stephen's parents house (where, in typicall India style both he and his wife and son, as well as his brother, sister-in-law, and nephew all live) for dinner. It will be a full day.

My happy news is that apparently I can finally post the photos from my i-phone - a MAJOR breakthrough. go technology!

So now I'm off for holiday festivities.

contradictions

Today was my last day at the st. joseph's school. each day on my 5 minute drive to the school (i was a passenger...don't worry...no way would i be driving in india!!) i would see an amazing arry of life being played out on the street: women preparing and selling breakfast on the "sidewalk", a man who ironed clothes, schoolchildren on bicycles, and the usual array of cows, vehicles, and people, people, people.

as we are approaching christmas this has brought up many thoughts about the Global Volunteers program here in India. While GV is nondenominational, the projects here in India are all run through Christian organizations. I have no doubt whatsoever that we/they are helping the children who have so few opportunities and so many challenges. But it raises many questions for me - not only as a non-christian, non-religious, spiritually-oriented Yoga practitioner of Jewish origins...but also the fact that we are in a religiously diverse, predominantly Hindu, country.

That said - here are some considerations to ponder. Although the rigid caste system in India was supposedly abolished many years ago, it still pervades many aspects of life - with the Brahmins at the top of the social, educational, and economic spectrum, and the lower castes...formerly referred to as "untouchables" still at great economic disadvantage and often consigned to low paying jobs.

As we learned from our GV host Stephen, while Gandhi advocated the abolition of the caste system in India, it was Dr Ambedkar who was the primary champion of the cause. His father joined the British army and fought against India's independence, because this was one of the few ways for lower caste individuals to have a better career. Thus - Ambedkar was educated abroad and eventually became a major advocate for caste abolition in India. As was the case witht he civil rights movement in the US - apparently there were arguments as to whether there should be a quota system set aside for the advancement of lower caste individuals. This was advocated by Ambedkar and, today, if people of lower caste list their caste on government forms they can get certain educational and job advantages.

On the other side was the conversion of lower caste individuals to christianity. As a religion that does not recognize the consignment of people to the caste into which they are born, rejection of Hinduism by lower caste people was considered liberating for many. According to Stephen, there is a very high rate of christianinty in Chennai - predominantly from people who were of lower caste families who can escape the stigma that low caste still holds in this society. Ironically - these christian converts who do not list their caste on government forms cannot take advantage of the governments set-asides for low caste individuals.

So - all that said - we are preparing to celebrate christmas tomorrow witht he children at the SEAMs home - all of whom will spend Christmas with whatever family they have...in many cases a parent who is too poor to care for them full-time...in other cases a distant relative. Whatever the religious belief - these are beautiful spirited children who have virtually no material possessions or advantages - but are nevertheless charming, entertaining, intelligent, and full of life. As you can imagine - anytime someone pulls out a camera they clamor for their photos bto be taken and enjoy seeing their image on the digital camera screen. The cry of "miss, one only photo" constantly rings in our ears. What this means is: please tak a picture of me alone.

As our group was pondering what gifts we would like to get for the children (which will include candy, grooming items, and small toys) I hit upon what all agreed was a brilliant idea (if I do say so myself). We decided to take a solo phot of all 40 of the children and get them printed to present with their gifts. We all are looking forward to seeing the childrens' excitement tomorrow when they get their own copy of their "one only photo."

So - I heard today that it was 1 degree in Arlington...yikes - it seems inconceiveable - as I spend each "winter" day here sweating like a pig and swatting mosquitos.

love to all

"my" boys at SEAMs

Mukesh

Road Trip

Over the weekend our group took a road trip...I will never be able to capture how much we expereinced...but will give it my best shot. We left early SAturday morning and drove to Kanchipuram where there are some of the oldest and most famous Hindu Temples in southern india. At the 1st (I don't have my notes with me - so I can't give the name) I was impressed by the huge grounds of the complex. It turns out that at some point back in time (I am bad on history and remembering dates...always have been) the Muslim invaders were coming in and destroying the Hindu temples...which is why most of the temples in NOrthern India are much newer than those that survived in the South. What they started doing in the South was to build a "fake" temple that the invaders would find 1st and destroy - hopefully leaving the "real" temple that was more in the interior. At this 1st temple we non-HIndus were allowed in the outer temple and on the grounds =which included a beautiful pool of water that had a structure in the water...but we were not allowed into the inner temple. One of our group is an Indian-American, so he was able to enter - but as he is not a practicing Hindu he said he didn't have a clue what was going on inside...so I guess the mysteries are still safely contained wihin the temple. This temple did, however, have several beautifully decorated elephants which were receiving their morning bath. Most of us decided to take the opportunity for a short elephant ride for the great sum of 100 rupees (about $2). It is not so easy to get up onto a huge elephant. She very kindly extends her front leg for you to climb up like a mountain...as you hold the rope and haul-ass on up. When she starts to move you definitely think you are going to fall off and it's a LONG way down. But fortunately there were no casualties!

At the next temple - the Temple of the Mango Tree (again - i dont' have the name in Tamil) it has a place on the Tamil historical register (or it may be the archeological register - something like that). As a result - all are allowed entry. It is a temple devoted to Shiva - the god of destruction. It is huge and magnificent...i't almost like being in a self contained village, it's so huge. Around the inner perimeter there are 108 Shiva lingams - those of you who don't know what these are can look it up...I know my Yoga buddies are familiar.

There were many pilgrims at this temple...men dressed all in black who walk barefoot to the temple. Yet pilgrims or not - they like many people we have met on our travels - wanted us to take their picture in the temple.

All in all we visited 4 temple in Kanchipuram with beautiful ornate architecture. At some point there will be photos. After lunching in Kanchipuram, we went sari shopping. The proprietor had an old loom in the showroom, demonstrating how all the saris they sell are still hand loomed. For some of the ornate saris - it takes 22 days to complete one sari. The place was crammed floor to ceiling with sari fabrics - both cotton and silk - and punjabi fabrics (these are the tunic and pants)...which you then have individually tailored. I selected a fabric I liked, but am having a "mofdified" punjabi made out of what is actually sari fabric...since I just don't see myself ever wearing that uncomfortable-looking little top with all the unfortunate rolls of belly fat hanging over the side. I went to a local tailor today - so wil see by the end of the week whether I'm satisfied with the result. What i never understood about how saris are sold is that the single piece of fabric is designed to have a portion used for the little shirt, and the pattern has a special place for the area that goes over the head. The punjabi fabrics some all together will one piece for the top, another for the pants, and a third for the scarf. Then the woman tells the tailor what design she wants.

We continued on to Pondicherry - a small city that was settled by the French. It has a "french section" along the sea coast..looking a bit like New Orleans, and a Tamil section. As you cross from the Tamil side to the French side, the noise level drops and there is a completely different feel. We walked along the ocean which has a cement boardwalk and - miracle in INdia - is CLOSED TO TRAFFIC - eliminating the need to constantly be on the alert for being run over.

In the morning we visited the Sri Auribindo ashram which was peaceful and beautiful - beautiful gardens and silence. I enjoyed a short meditation and wished I had realized how close it was to our hotel and gone early...but...anyway - visited the bookshop and have some materials for my yoga community (yoga buddies - there is a Thai Noy dinner in your future - complete with publications fromthe Self-Realization Fellowship). We went on to visit Auroville - a utopian community developed by the same folks in 1968. They have reforested some 40 acres of land and have followers from many nations around the world. Some day I would like to spend enough time there to be allowed to enter this crystall dome that has been constructed for meditation. The outside is a golden ball - the inside is allwhite with an opening at the top for the sun to come througha huge crystal. it sounded pretty new-age awesome!

We then drove to Mamallapuram - a location know for its stone carvings - representative of Dravidian architecture. I didn't expect anything to surpass the awe I felt at seeing the KAnchipuram temples - but it did! I was blown away by the enormous stone structures and bas reliefs carved out of solid rock. At the 1st location we visited - the huge temple like structure originally was designed to be in the water...but an artificial retaining wall was constructed to help preserve teh structure. The structures apparently were carved from the top down using a wooden model as their guide. The craftsmanship is unbelievable. My photos will not do it justice...i want to find a good quality book and scan in some photos. After a very long day, with one last little hike to see the local monkeys...we trooped back on the bus for the ride home. It ws not far in kilometers - but we ran into the Chennai traffic which ground our journey to an almost-complete halt. But - eventually we made it and, thankfully, our tour bus was air conditioned.

HAd a short morning with my kindergarteners and will head early to SEAMS shortly. We are going early so t hat the group can attend a performance of Indian dance this evening, which i am looking forward to with great anticipation.

Cell Phone is Working!!

Finally figured out why my cell phone wasn't working - so it's functioning again; however - still haven't mastered using data functions. A call to AT&T may be in the works.

Chennai Beach

Local children in Porur

Kids at SEAMS Home

The only way I can manage to upload my photos is one at a time - each one taking about 3 minutes. There is a faster way - but i need help to do it.

End of the 1st Week

Well - I have made it through my 1st week. Each morning i have administered mid-term exams to kindergarteners, the 1st 4 afternoons i drilled 3rd and 5th graders to prepare for their exams at a different school. this afternoon was my 1st visit to the Assisi Home - a day care for 40 children ages 2-5 and an orphanage for 80. Half the volunteers in our group have been working every day at Assissi with the day care. This afternoon was their christmas pageant - what a spectacle!!! the children were dressed in their finery and the nuns and volunteers had made a very exotic creche. Like young tots anywhere in the world some performed their songs and dances with flair, while others froze or melted down. But compared to the SEAMs home where we go every evening, the Assisi house was clean and orderly...and - most delightful for me - it was COOL - with thick stone walls, curtains to keep out the sun, ceiling fans, and great breezes. The street the Assisi home is on is beautiful - a far cry from the streets in the neighborhood closer to where we're staying...no trash in the street, everything very clean and neat (of course my standards probably have changed drastically.)

So you probably saw that i managed to post just one photo...the problem is that the one person at the internet cafe who can help me get the photos up is almost never here during the hours that i have free. perhpas i can come back later tonight...but i want to go to bed early as tomorrow our group is travelling to pondicherry for the weekend. i'm looking forward to seeing another part of india, and we also will visit some temples and the famous stonecarvings at mamallapuram. also - in pondicherry - we will stay in a hotel that will have HOT RUNNING WATER. i did the happy dance when i found out.

despite my struggle with hot weather 9although i must note that despite the temperatures in teh 80s here - many people wear scarves and sweaters, as it is their "winter.")...so despite my struggles with the hot weather - the fact that i have been showering in cold water for a week makes me grateful to look forward to a hot shower. Lest you think i am living in adverse circumstances - the bedrooms in the guest hose DO have air conditioning - which is very nice since i doubt i would be sleeping so well without it. as i usually wake up somewhere between 4 and 5:30 a.m. to visit the bathroom i have been able to hear each morning the loud music blaring. apparently it is the call to prayer time for Hindu temple, mosque, and church alike!

but - back to the bathroom...the house has only cold running water (which we definitely DO NOT DRINK) but here is my dilemma - if you shower mid-day the water feels very warm, as it's collected into a tank which gets warm from the sun. the problem is that i slather up with mosquito repellant in the morning and then again before we go to the SEAMS home. I get so sweaty and disgusting at SEAMS that i have designated one set of clothing that I wear there as there is no point in washing it in between visits. So, also, there is no point in showering until i am finished at SEAMS. By then - the water is cold - refreshing, but cold!.

Once I can post a photo you will be able to see the facilities. The bathroom is a small room with a tile floor. There is a toilet with a spray hose adjacent for cleaning the backside. Ours lacks a sink - but as Miriam and i are the only residents with our own attached bathroom (we just lucked out on room assignment) i wouldn't dare complain about lack of sink. There is a set of faucets that control the shower (although only 1 works, as there is only cold water) and another set of faucets taht control a faucet below (again - only the cold works). However - one of our 1st evenings, Miriam used the faucet and it came off in her hand - water spraying EVERYWHERE!!! fortunately i was able to get our host, Stephen, to run up and reattach it before we flooded the entire 2nd floor of the house! His look of horror was much more because Miriam was there wrapped in a towel (India is a very modest country) than because the water was going all over the place. Needless to say - neither of us has been willing to TOUCH that faucet again. I use the shower, Miriam uses the spray nozzle, and there is another faucet near the nozzle. The room has a big squeegy on a long handle so that we can dry the floor and send the water down the drain in the floor after we've made our big mess bathing or hand washing our clothing.

We also often must pour a bucket of water into the toilet, as there is not always sufficient pressure for it to flush. Also - because the water is collected in a tank - when it runs out - someone has to turn on the pump switch, which is located in the kitchen. we've been warned that we NUST remember to turn the pump off after 10 minutes, or the tank will overflow and create "artificial rain." While this set up may seem a bit primitive, today I noticed the public water faucets at the end of our street. IN the morning I saw women filling their large water cans from the public spigots...so clearly, many local residents have no running water in their homes...not surprising.

I really enjoy reading your comments - so please keep posting!!!

Things are beginning to fall into a routine - we have breakfast at 8;30 and leave for our work assignments about 9:15 - after slathering up with deet. For the rest of the week, I am working int he morning with the lower kindergarten at the st joseph school - -5 year olds and will assist as they are administered their exams...yes - kindergarteners have a full week of exams. i go back to the guest house for lunch and have about a half hour to rest. the afternoon i spend from about 2-3:30 at the grace school - a much more impoverished population and ispend half the time with a small group of the 3rd graders and the other half with a small groupof the 5th graders. i was impressed with the level of the ciricculum of the 5th graders and one boy (I still have to learn his name) is an absolute genius ...he knows the answers to everything!!

wwe return for a short rest, before leaving for the SEAMs home. I work for an hour or so with a ghroupof 4 2nd grade boys: Mukesh, Franklin, Lucas, and Arun. We've been spending time with letters and spelling. But you canimagine - i have my hands full with 4 very spirited boys. mukesh is definitely the ringleader. It's hard to tell how much of my english they understand...but they likethe attention regardless.

We will see if i manage to go the 2 weeks without catching headlice - which are hopping off the kids' heads with mad abandon. I'm just glad Miriam followed the advice of global volunteers and brought a huge bottle of RID shampoo. i am signing off as i am going to try to upload my photos!!

The Program Begins

Last night we went for the 1st time to the SEAM childrens home - which we will visit each evening to spend time with the children. It is a heartbreaking place. the children range in age from 5 - 16 and most are what they call "semi-orphans." They often have parents or other relatives who do not have the means to support them. They are beautiful and exceptionally friendly children. When we arrived - about half of them went rushing up to one of the volunteers who was with the program last year and has returned with our group. They were so excited to see her again!!!

They all are very happy to introduce themselves, have their pictures taken (of course) and spend time getting attention from the volunteers in small groups. One of the boys in the small group I worked with last night - Lucas - is a natural born leader. He immediately sat the group down, organized a game, and managed it so that he would win each time!!

But the home itself is grim, almost beyond description, with virtually no amenities. There is one large room in the main building where activities take place and where all the boys sleep on the concrete floor. Their dinner (rice) was being cooked outside the building over an open wood fire. There is another building in which the girls sleep. Let's just say it would not meet our American standards of cleanliness and leave it at that.

One of the projects that GV is working on, including a few volunteers from our group - is building a dormitory for the children to sleep which will ultimately have bunkbeds for the children. The children go to the Grace school during the day - and some of us are working there. Apparently most of the boys get some sort of vocational training after they turn 16 and the girls stay at the SEAM home until husbands are found for them. Again - it's a different world from what we're used to.

Which brings me to the need to clarify my statement the other day that our neighborhood is considered upper middle class, according to our GV host. The roads are dirt and very rough. There is rubble and garbage freely distributed virtually everywhere. Each block seems to have an open lot as the local garbage dump. Also - our host told us that 30% of the population lives below the poverty line - defined here as, get this: LESS THAN $1 PER DAY. So we're talking about a vastly different standard tahn th US.

As volunteers we are not allowed to cross the main road without someone from the program. There is a very good reason for this. The concept of a "l;ane" or "lanes" is nonexistent. The surge of traffic flows wherever it can and, as far as I can tell - traffic signals are VERY few and far between. When we cross the busy road as a group, we are instructed to form into one horizontal ine and cross together, so we can move to the midpoint, and then the other side as a single unit. This takes awhile as the traffic never ceases. Amidst this hubub - the cows placidly sit in the CENTER of the 2 "lanes" of traffic or along the edges. Apparently the rush of traffic keeps the flies off them.

There clearly are propserous homes that are gated and have air conditioning - yet most are very basic, and there are people sleeping on doorsteps and sidewalks. Women cary large loads on their heads with grace; men ride bicycles laden with an unbelievable amount of goods: aluminum pots, cut branches, fuel cans, you name it.

My morning assignment was to help in the kindergarten of a Catholic school...apparently one of the better schools in the area which accepts some low inocme scholarship students. It is exam week and the teacher had me grade the students on presenting 2 stories that they were to have memorized...on content, presentation of the "moral of the story" and on pronunciation. It was agony for me - having no context on which to judge. The first story was the familiar "caps for sale" in which the cap salesman falls asleep under the tree and the monkeys steal the caps and throw them on the ground. I never quite got the gist of the 2nd story...I think it was some variation of an Aesop's fable about birds working together to lift a net or get food or some such thing...but I clearly got the moral of the story: "unity is strenght!"

The afternoon I went to the Grace school to help small groups of 3rd and 5th graders prepare for their exams. The readers are very religious-oriented with stories that focus on things such as "cleanliness is Godliness" and "honor thy mother and father." They are very much drilled on memorization and it was challenging to try to work with them on comprehension. But the children were, as we've seen everywhere - friendly and eager.

So - my final note for today - at the house for hte volunteers we have a cook - Rani - and I have been eating the best food of my life. Three meals a day of Southern Indian vegetarian cooking - my absolute favorite. I can't even begin to describe the variety and deliciousness. I don't think ALL the volunteers are quite as enthralled as I am - but it is a real treat for me.

I REALLY want to be able to post some photos - but i have to find a time at the Internet cafe when someone can help me see if they have software that is compatible with my camera, or can download it. Until then...you'll just have to use your imagination.

No Cellphone Reception

I'm posting this as a stand alone - I do not have cell phone reception in Porur, where we are staying - although I did at the Chennai airport. so I am using the Internet cafe for email...will check just about daily if you need to get a message to me.

Loving India!

I am loving india! Our 1st afternoon we walked around the neighborhood just as the children were getting home from school. Miriam and i were a source of great curiosity...the children were very curious about us, asking our names - especially the older ones who wanted to practice their english. The younger ones liked having their photos taken and then lookking at them on the digital camera. I am still working to see if i can downdload some photos...but that will have to wait for another day. One little boy was rather somber when i took his picture, and then broke into a huge smile when he saw it on the camera.

The neighborhood we are in - Porur - used to be considered a lower-middle class neighborhood, but now is considered more uper-middle class, according to our GV guide. By Americans standards, you would probably not see it that way. There is certainly garbage in the streets...there are open sewers, etc. But we feel very comfortable and safe here. The traffic is utter chaos -- pedestrians, bicycles, motor bikes (usually with anywhere from 2-4 people on each) taxis, cars, buses, all "sharing" the roads with LOTS of horn honking.

There is a festival going on - so in the evening people are lighting many small lamps outside and it is lovely to see them all flickering int he dark. There are, of course, cows in teh streets, many stray dogs, local chipmunks that are very noisy and have bushy tails, and many crows...shich sound just like our local crows but have a swath of dusky brown feathers around the neck region.

The women decorate the entrance to their homes with chalk drawings each day (sorry - I am forgetting what thtey are called)...but they are drawn with a powerded chalk - so it takes uite a bit of skill and concentration.

For the yogis here - our GV guide said that this is, in a sense, the way the women practice yoga - not the way we do it in the West - with the asanas, etc....but the drawing is a way that builds concentration, and the squatting positin helps keep them flexible.

I will try to post oa photo of a house under construction: they hang an effigy outside the house - it is to draw teh "evil eye" so that it wont be cast on the house. Then, when the house is completed - the effigy is taken to the intersection of 3 roads and burned. Maybe we should give this a try in the US as anyone who's had construction has probably encountered numerous things going wrong.

Yesterday we still had a free day before the program begins - so the 3 of us who were early arrivals went on a very comprehensive tour of Chennai. i don't want to hog the computer time now to tell all the details. But - I must share this - we went to a restaurant for lunch - i ordered a vegetarian thali - which is a complete meal with soup, 2 curries (1 loaded with panir), a dal, rice, yogurt, and a delicious dessert - all for about $2.50.

We visited the Government Museum - which has many sculprtures and bronzes from the local Tamill region. But, as in the neighborhood, the highlight was the curiosity of the school children who enjoyed speaking to us and repeatedly asked our names, where we were from, etc. It would seem that they don't see too many Westerners i this area. The people are remarkably friendly.

We also visited the Chennai beach where - again - people liked being photographed. LIke any beach - there were lots of stalls selling things (I will try to post photos later - if I can get doftware to download) and even fortune-telling parrots 9i took a chort video...the parrot picks out cards to tell your fortune).

miriam and I were incredibly lucky to arrive on time. Nearly all the other volunteers in teh program had VERY many delays in their flights - some routed to multiple cities. By the middle of the night last night all had arrived...there are 8 of us in total. We had our orientation this morning and will begin our assignments tomorrow. Some are doing construction of a dormitory for the orphanage, some will work in the childrens home (orphanage), some in a day care center, and threst of us in a school. All of us will go every evening to the orphanage to spend time with the children...starting tonight.

One last thing - I got a lesson yesterday on the meaning and interpretation of the Indian head bobble." It seems no wants want to say "no" or a definite "yes" to a question...sothe head bobble and body language are a general "ok"...but our GV host Stephen, said none of us will be here long enough to ever really interpret it. But you see it so much I can already feel my own head starting to copy it...so don't be surprised if i start to look a little goofy when i return.

I'm Here

After leaving DC at 5 pm Wednesday, arrived Paris Thursday morning - spent an hour going through security (good thing i had a 4-hour layover). After misplacing my passport in my state of exhaustion and, thanks to the honest indian people who found it and gave it back to me when i realised i had left it by the gate...decided i better get some caffeine into my system.

Waited anxiously for my traveling compainion - my cousin Miriam to amke her connection from Amsterdam. Fortunately she arrived just as our flight to Chennai was boarding. What i thought would be a 7 hour flight was more like 9 hours and i'm still goofed up about the time difference - which is apparently 4.5 hours earlier than paris - go figure.

Arrived friday morning in chennai - and by morning i mean 1 a.m. and then waitind a full hour for our bags - which fortunately all arrived. were met by our global volunteers coordinator, Stephenraj and another volunteer - Nikki and were driven through the dark streets to the guest house in Porur. In the dark saw my first indian cows roaming the streets, as well as numerous stray dogs, palm trees, and piles of rubble.

By the time we got to our room - we were totally exhausted and went right to sleep - got up around 8 a.m. and I actually feel like i'm on the local time zone...so that's pretty good.

Still rather spaey, however...i learned the hard way why they tell you not to lie down for 30 minutes after taking doxycycline 9my antimalarial drug). I took it 1st thing on rising and then forgot and lay down for a bit. Ended up barfing before breakfast (yuck)... all better now.

so - today we are going to get organized and then wander around porur a bit...hope to get some photos up soon.

Always Something

Haven't even left Dulles airport and already having an adventure. Got
here early and breezed through security. Decided to give an extra
charge to my iPhone for the long trip. Lo and behold the international
charger for my old iPod turned out to be incompatible with my iPhone.
It didn't even occur to me to check before leaving home. What would I
do without my iPhone for 5 weeks?!!!!!!!!!
I called the apple store in a panic. The nice man suggested a way to
troubleshoot which, sadly, didn't work. So then I asked if there was
any place in Dulles airport that would sell an iPhone charger. He
searched and searched and told me to try airport wireless. He even was
able to tell me it was located on concourse B. By some mircle, that's
where I was! Sure enough-they not only had a charger but a plug for
India too.
Big sigh of relief!
Will this be an omen for the trip: lots of unexpected complications
but everything somehow working out?
Stay tuned.

Sent from my iPhone :)

Where is...?

I added a map of India so that you can see where we will be.  Most of our destinations are on the map.

Map of India

Test

Trying to see if I can post from my phone. Janet - did you get an email?

Sent from my iPhone :)

My Itinerary Dec 10, 2008 - Jan 13, 2009

Depart Washington Dec 10 - 5 p.m.

Arrive Paris Dec 11 - around 6:30 a.m.

Depart Paris Dec 11 - around 10:30 a.m.

Arrive in Chennai around midnight Dec 11/12

Global Volunteers - Porur [suburb of Chennai] Dec 13 - 27

[Dec 20 - 21 Pondicherry - l'orient hotel]

Dec 28 - 30 Cochin - Bolgatty Palace

Dec 30 - Jan 2 - Thekkady - Aranya Nivas

Jan 2 - 5 - Alleppy - not sure where

Jan 5 - 6 - Trivandrum - Mascot Hotel

Jan 6 - 7 - Kanyakumari - not sure where

Jan 8 - 9 - Kumarakom - Waterscapes

Jan 9 - 10 Cochin - Bolgatty Palace

Jan 10 - fly to Mumbai - drive to Pune

Jan 12 - drive Pune to Mumbai

depart Mumbai wee hours of Jan 13

through Paris - arrive Washington mid-day Jan 13