Monday, December 29, 2008

Ernakulam and Cochin

After a lovely evening and delightful warm shower we woke up ready for action today. In the morning we went to the new part of the area - Ernakulam. It could practically be anywhere in the (hot) world: modern buildings, shops, orderly traffic, PARKS and PLAYGROUNDS!!! Things we never saw in Chennai, although Neel keeps insisting that they did exist. We then went to the old part of the city - Cochin or Kochin for a visit to "Jew Town" as it's called. So - I may be getting dates wrong (not my strong suit) but I believe the synagogue was established in about 1344, when this was a Portugese colony. The building is clearly ancient. There is a small museum area in which paintings depict the arrival of the Jews in India. The synagogue is filled with chandeliers - which would be beautiful filled witht eh candles for which they are designed. In traditional Orthodox fashion - there is a balcony where the women would worship and the ground level for the men. The pulpit is an elevated platform with a brass railing around it - in the center of the building, with the area for the Torah at the far end. The best part: as Miriam and I were talking with Neel, an American woman asked if she could listen to what we were saying - thinking that Neel was explaining things to us, as he is Indian. We told her that actually Neel is our guide for all things Hindu, and Miriam and I are his guides for all things Jewish...but: it turns out that this woman was from Seattle and knew the new Rabbi who is about to lead Miriam's congregation in Minneapolis...so she and Miriam got to travel all the way to India to share a bit of gossip about the new Rabbi! Small world!!!!
There are many narrow streets on the approach to the synagogue - all filled with many shops. At one that advertised itself as selling traditional Jewish items, we met the oldest remaining member of the Jewish community - a woman who looked to be in her 80s. She was born here, spoke very good English, and told us that there are only 11 Jews left here. Anyway - amused myself taking photos of the "Jew Town" signs. I think I have now found someone who can put my photos on a CD and then will finally be able to post some to the blog...since my i-phone's ability to connect is spotty at best.

So - we are getting ready to attend a kathicali dance performance (classical Indian dance). Apparently the 1st hour we watch them apply makeup; the 2nd hour is the dance. Hmmm...sound more like a drag performance (ha ha).
So this internet cafe is quite a bit more modern than my place in Chennai...just had a cat wandering through - no cows seen yet - only goats...but there is an actual cafe and bookstore attached. It sells (for the yogis) a good selection of the Bihar School books, as well as books on Gandhi, tourist-type books, and some novels by Indian authors...but I also see a copy of the Hobbit. There definitely are many more Western tourists here...which is not at all surprising, since it is clear why Chennai is not a top tourist destination. If I had to choose - this would be the place to be.

3 comments:

Amy O. said...

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! When you read this message, it will be 2009! I've been enjoying your descriptions, as usual. Enjoy your rest in the nature preserve - I look forward to reading about it and seeing some photos from there and Cochin as well. It's supposed to hit -10 F here so enjoy summer while you still have it! XO Amy

Amy O. said...

What or where is Ernakulam?

Enid said...

That area is made up of several islands - Ernakulam is the newer part - Cochin is the older part