Thursday, January 1, 2009

Into the Wild...sort of

At some point I will try to get a photo of our Kathakali dance performance - which was quite bizarre. It apparently is the dance form specific to Kerala...and my earlier comment about a "drag" performance was somewhat prescient: Think 3, 6 foot tall men in huge Scarlett O'Hara type hoopp skirts, 5 foot long wigs, and lots of makeup. Basically - not much movement - but a lot of costumes.

The next day we left on our long drtive to Thekkady which turned out to be through very mountainous terrain, as it is at nearly 3,000 feet. Thanks to our very trusty and calm driver - Shakkeer - we were in good hands - although the narrow, windy roads, like everywhere in India, are shared with pedestrians, cows, buses, etc. Miriam and I adore Shakkeer - who is knowledgeable, polite, considerate and able to speak about 5 languages (more than our "guide" Neel - who sometimes has his own agenda...but more on that some other time.)

We ended up at our destination in the Periyar Wildlife Reserve where we are staying in one of the 2 hotels actually on the grounds. That has the advantage of convenience...but the hotel (supposedly the better of the 2) is somewhat reminiscent of a 1930s-era state hospital. Notusually a comcplainer - I insistged that they change the sheets on the bed (I'm just not a fan of crumbly little bits on the sheets) and after the 1st night, we asked for a different room...which we are much more satisfied with...and the food at the hotel is FABULOUS!!!

The highlight, of course - is being surrounded with wildlife...many birds, but also very entertaining monkeys all over the place.a Each room has a warning to leave your windows shut when you go out - lest the monkeys come in...whicih they clearly will do - if given half a chance. Yesterday after breakfast there was a window open in the hallway. As we were snapping photos, I set my sunglasses down on the windowsill. One of the little fellows tried to reach around and grab them!!! We have seen 2 varieties - the smaller ones (whose names I dont' remember) and the larger macaques - black monkeys with a white ruff around the neck. They don't some so close and stay in the trees.

In the evening I was luckt to see a group of 4 elephants across the water. Sadly - my camera isn't strong enough to capture more than a copule of gray blobs. Still - it was a thrill to see elephants int eh wild. This morning we rang in the new year by going on a 3 and ahlaf hour nature walk. It started with the rental of "Leech socks" (for 20 rupees each - about 40 cents)...canvass socks that go over the foot and tie at the knee. I don't think we needed them - but who wants to tak a chance. Then - in the morning mist we, in groups of 5 - each with a guide - took a bamboo raft across the river. It was lovely...very lord of the rings crossing the river in the mist.

We saw many birds - the lovliest was a scarlet minuet - small birds - the male is red and black, the female is yellow and gray. OUr guide could hear an elephant and after muck standing and quiet stalking - we saw - far in the distance in teh trees could see a large gray shape moving its ears. Miriam couldn't see it - but later it trumpeted and made a "tock-tock" sound that our guide told us was the sound of it flapping its ears...so she knew it was there. I was able to photograph elephant poop - of which there was plenty.

Anyway we are starving for lunch - so more to come.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Enid I loved the raft image and of course the sunglass loving monkey! What an experience you are having. I am a bit jealous as I sit hearing the noise of the third football game of the day!

Amy O. said...

what does elephant poop look like? i wouldn't know it, if i stepped in it! glad you're having fun and i can't wait to see some of your photos when you have a chance to post them. XOXO and Happy New Year!

Ricky said...

What a wonderful setting for bringing in the new year. Given your last post, I just have to ask... shat about hannukah in India? Any signs?
(happy new year)

Enid said...

the only signs of hanukkah in india were a couple menorahs in cochin's "jew town"

Anne said...

How awesome that you got to see elephants! And I think I can say with certainty now that you're the only person I know who ever had occasion to rent "leech socks."